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This is one of the best motorcycling roads in Romania! The road crosses several mountains and is chock-full of hairpins, elevation changes, S-curves and absolutely fantastic views. It is in the very north of the country, but if you plan your trip to include the painted monasteries of Bucovina (and you definitely should!), then this will provide for a memorable experience.

The road starts in Campulung Moldovenesc. The city is a 14th century logging town set in the Moldova Valley at 621 meters. Leaving town you notice immediately the quality of the road—it is exceptional. This is one of the more recently rebuilt roads the rider immediately appreciates it. For most of its 72 kilometers, the asphalt is superb and the road markings clear. From town, you climb quickly into the mountains to the Pascanu Pass, located at 1040 meters.

From here the road is a literal roller coaster—up-down, left-right-left-right, turn after turn, and one hairpin after another. The only points of contention are the areas where, due to weather or soil erosion, small portions of the road are under construction.

About 22 kilometers from Campulung Moldovenesc, you arrive at Vatra Moldovitei. Then, it is a short ride to the Moldovita Monastery. Petru Rares established the convent in 1532. The vivid frescoes were painted in 1537 on an intense blue background. The grounds also contain a clisarnita (guesthouse for dignitaries), which houses a museum of monastic treasures.

From Vatra Moldovitei, the road continues on its wild, twisty path through the mountains. This area feels about as remote and rural as you would expect of a picture-perfect medieval area. There are nothing but deep forests, narrow valleys and small settlements highlighted by hayracks.

As you turn the bike into one corner and point it through the apex to the next, you smell the clean, fresh air through your nostrils, and feel the calming waves of lush green run through you. The road moves ever higher through this section, up to 1109 meters and Ciumarna Pass. The views are breathtaking—mountains covered in forests, the occasional pasture and isolated shepherd shelter. You are torn between the desire to stop and take the whole experience in and the urge to keep riding.

From Ciumarna Pass, the road descends into Sucevita. The town of Sucevita is home to the Sucevita Monastery, the last and, by some accounts, greatest monastic complexes. The church was founded in 1584, followed by the surrounding walls, towers and belfry. The grounds have an air of grandeur, enhanced by the church’s bright red and blue frescoes. For a real treat, from the main entrance, go around to the back of the outer walls and climb up the hill, past the cemetery to the stone cross at the top. The whole valley and the monastery open up before your eyes in an awe-inspiring panorama.

The road continues farther north into Marginea. As you enter the village, you notice the large black pot framing the town sign. Marginea is known for its distinctive black pottery, based on old traditions, but with a clearly modern feel. In the center of the village, there is an active workshop, where you can watch the clay being molded into shapes by old artisans. In the adjoining room, there is a shop filled with the finished products. This workshop is worth a stop.

From Marginea, there are eight short kilometers into Radauti. The road by this point is wide, the views open up towards the plains and the ride is much more relaxed. The town of Radauti is situated only 25 kilometers from the border crossing with Ukraine, but not particularly interesting, aside from a large statue honoring Bogdan II, the father of Stephen the Great, and ruler of Moldova from 1449 to 1451.

This road not only gives access to two of Bucovina’s incredible painted monasteries, but it is also one of the most impressive and enjoyable motorcycle rides in the country. It is quite a ways north, but a trip up here would richly reward you in more ways than one. Yes, you owe it to yourself to take this trip.

DN17A

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DN17A

Sucevita

Marginea

Radauti

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