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Road to Zalau

M. Viteazu Monument

Road to Zalau

Zalau

Road to Cluj

Cluj-Napoca

Road to Aiud

Aiud

Alba Iulia

Road to Sibiu

Sibiu

The road practically begins in the northwestern corner of Romania, in the small town of Cindreag, on Romania’s border with Ukraine. But since there is no open border crossing and the road has no counterpart in Ukraine, practically it starts in Satu Mare.

SATU MARE is described in a travel book as “the ugliest town in Romania.” In all fairness, that statement is not only a bit strong, but also slightly skewed. The downtown area is fairly charming and pleasant. As a matter of fact, there are other towns in Romania that would be much better candidates for the ‘ugliest town’ moniker. The Hotel Dacia was the former city hall and royal court. Much of the activity of Satu-Mare is centered around the Piata Libertatii with the Hungarian Reformed, Orthodox and Roman Catholic Churches as well as the Great Synagogue nearby.

From the center of town, E81 begins its journey south on smooth and high quality pavement. The road meanders gently through the plains and low-lying hills for much of the way to Zalau. High-speed sweepers interrupt the straight stretches with only the villages dotting the landscape breaking what could otherwise be a fast paced ride. In many villages you ride through time seems to have stood still for centuries. People still plough their land with a horse-drawn wooden plough, do field work by hand with small garden tools, and generally seem unfazed by the pace of life elsewhere.

As you approach Zalau, you cannot help but notice on the left side of the road a large stone monument towering over the valley from the hilltop. There is a quick road across the railroad track, which leads up to the monument. It was erected in 1976 to remember and celebrate Mihai Viteazul. He is the Wallachian prince who, in 1600 A.D., successfully unified the three historical provinces—Transylvania, Wallachia and Moldova—that roughly make up today’s Romania. That unification only lasted a very short time, as he literally lost his head at the hands of his own general. The monument was erected in the blocky and somewhat uninspiring style of communist monuments. Its impressive location, up on a hill and high above the surrounding valleys, makes it visible for miles in all directions.

From the monument, it is a short ride into ZALAU. The town shows signs of development and recent investment. Still, in its current format, the town is a far cry from its origins as the first documented Transylvanian town, also known in antiquity as a Roman-Dacian military and cultural stronghold. The investment in real estate, here as everywhere across Romania is evident, with new neighborhoods lining the road, particularly as you ride out of town.

Continuing on E81, the road begins a scenic climb right from the outskirts of the city. The road quality is good, the lanes are wide and well marked. As the road climbs, you encounter a few hairpin turns with good elevation changes which make for a lively and engaging ride. This road is definitely fun and continues to be entertaining for the next 20 kilometers or so.

Past that point, the vistas open, and the road combines sweepers with long stretches of straight highway. In spots the road gets a little rough, but nothing serious. The ride into Cluj-Napoca is smooth and pleasant.

Riding into CLUJ-NAPOCA (Cluj) it becomes obvious that this is a large and growing city. New dealerships, superstores, small factories and new construction dot the sides of the road. A city with a long history and an important university center, Cluj has a vibrant personality and energy with its trendy coffee shops, swanky bars and up-to-the-minute Euro fashion on the streets. Cluj is an ethnically diverse city with a large Hungarian population. In the 1970s, Ceausescu added Napoca to the city’s name to signify its Daco-Roman roots. However, most people refer to the city as Cluj.

Riding through town, aside from traffic, should not pose any problems. The center of town is easily found following the signs and all major directions leading out-of-town are well marked. What you may find odd, especially coming from the U.S., is the web of electrical wires suspended above most major city avenues—the town employs trolley busses as its main public transportation. The busses run on electricity and stay connected to the suspended wires.

In Cluj, E81 intersects another major route, E60 that runs roughly east-west (technically, it is more of a north-west to south-east axis). Exiting Cluj toward Turda, the two roads run the same way. As you leave Cluj, the road climbs through tight curves offering a real panoramic view of the city and the surrounding areas. It is a joy to ride, although the volume of traffic tempers that emotion just a little. The good news is that from here to Turda the road widens to a four-lane (undivided) highway crossing hills, plateaus and rivers. The ride can be as relaxed or as fast as you want to make it. The scenery will want to keep you cruising, while the road and the traffic around you will tempt you to enjoy your steed.

In Turda the two main roads split—E81 continues south while E60 veers left. The road moves pleasantly along hills that abut the Trascau Mountains to the west. The forms of relief give the road its own character and make for an engaging yet relaxed ride. The ride into Aiud brings with it a sign of historical Saxon presence in the form of a well-preserved fortified church.

From Aiud to Alba Iulia is an easy 30 kilometers. Aside from its historical significance, ALBA IULIA (Karlsburg's Weissenberg in German) is not much for the eye as most of its older buildings were bulldozed under Ceausescu with concrete replacements favored. The city was the place where Mihai Viteazul entered triumphantly in 1599 to unify Wallachia with Transylvania, and also where he erected an Orthodox church. In the heart of Alba Iulia's citadel (where a few original walls still stand) are the Roman Catholic and Orthodox cathedrals. Several famous Transylvanian princes are buried in the Catholic cathedral. The Orthodox Church (1922) was built for the coronation of King Ferdinand I and Queen Marie (their frescoed portraits are on the rear walls). The 58-meter tall bell tower and gardens are striking. It is also within these 18th century walls that the Act of Unification between Romania and Transylvania was signed (1918).

Exiting Alba Iulia, E81 crosses a short 18 kilometers of rolling hills to arrive in Sebes. Here, the road joins E68 for the next 55 kilometers. Riding into Sebes, you realize that something is different. Aside from the landscape, the most striking aspect about the town is the architecture of its houses—they are narrower, with windows placed higher and tall gates. You have arrived in what was historically Saxon territory. The layout of the cities, the architecture of the old buildings and the feel of the places reflect the historical Saxon presence.

Riding away from Sebes, the road combines high-speed sweepers with long stretches of straight asphalt, against the backdrop of Cindrel Mountains to the right. The view is wide but dramatic, with open vistas and scenic towns and villages. However, traffic keeps you from daydreaming for too long. Getting closer to Sibiu, in the town of Cristian, the road widens to two lanes with generous shoulders, turning this section into a four-lane road.

SIBIU (Hermannstadt) has the honor of co-chairing as the European Cultural Capital in 2007, alongside Luxembourg. The old city is worth a visit—with its squares, Piata Mare, Piata Mica and Piata Huet, charming old buildings and churches as well as trendy boutiques, bookstores, and café terraces. There are plenty of cobblestone streets and alleyways to stroll that also provide great vantage points for people-watching.

Sibiu is at the confluence of several major highways, so navigating its streets can be a hassle at times. But following E81 should not pose a serious problem. Leaving Sibiu, you find yourself still riding on a four-laner for a little while. About 10 kilometers out of town, E81 veers to the right toward Ramnicu Valcea. From here, the road follows the dramatic Olt River valley, as it carves its way through the hard rocks of the Middle Carpathians and their highest mountain ranges—Fagaras, Lotru, and Capatanii Mountains.

The Fagaras Mountains are the tallest in the entire Middle Carpathian range. They rise up from the Transylvanian Plateau with jagged edges, and majestic snow-capped peaks well into the summer. The highest point is the Moldoveanu peak, which stands at 2,545 meters. Riding E81 through this section is quite an experience, since the road parallels the river as it cuts through the mountains. There are 71 kilometers of fairly demanding riding, not made any easier by the flow of commercial traffic.

Ramnicu Valcea is an industrial town at the foot of the Carpathians. It is also at the crossroads of several main traffic arteries. From here, E81 dashes for 59 kilometers to Pitesti, home to Romania’s auto icon, the Dacia, and then from there, it joins the A1 motorway/freeway into the capital, Bucuresti. The road is fairly good and the freeway is predictably fast (although don’t be surprised to find potholes). Watch out for radar—this road is a favorite revenue generator for law enforcement, with speed cameras mounted along its length.

If you arrive in the country by plane into Bucuresti, riding E81 or sections of it gives you access to several other areas of the country with great riding. For the motorcycle enthusiast, the real beauty of this road lies north of Ramnicu Valcea. The mountain crossings as well as the different historical and cultural areas that it not only links, but also opens for the willing traveler, make E81 a unique experience.

Satu Mare

Motorcycle Adventures for the 21st Century